Searching the Internet we stumbled across a delightful villa in the Dordogne Valley at La Roque-Gageac called Roquecombe, we chose this area as we had read a biography that was written by an English woman who had bought a vineyard nearby and spent many years establishing it. Books are a great inspiration when traveling and The Ripening Sun lived up to its reputation giving us a great focal point to explore is fabulous setting, The Dordogne.
La Roque- Gageac at night
La Roque- Gageac at night
We thought it was a tourist information exaggeration when we read that there were around 1400 chateaus dotted around the landscape but we soon discovered that it was no exaggeration and would be quite a challenge if you wanted to count just the ones we could see from the roads.
Daniel on the wall at Biron Chateau
It is also the home to many Prehistoric sites and caves with the Moustier cave men (dating back 55000 years) being found nearby. This encouraged us to visit The Roque Saint Christophe, a cave village set 300ft in the cliffs overlooking the Vezere river, these caves have been home to many ancient civilizations from Moustier men 400000 years ago, the Neolithic generations 2600 years BC, it was really interesting to see remnants from so many civilizations in one place.
La Roque St Christophe
Our accommodation at Roquecombe was more than we ever expected and our delightful hosts, Philippe and Anne Marie ensured a pleasant stay.
On Sunday evening our hosts invited us to aperitifs to meet the other guests staying at the other cottages/Gites
Cointha and Daniel were pleased to find out that there was another Australian family an English family and an older Australian couple vacationing in the other units.
Cointha and Daniel had a wonderful time being able to communicate with some other children for a change, and Daniel was enthralled by the football skills (soccer) of the English lad Jamie.
Jamie who is about 13 had us amused as we discovered another involuntary language error
When our poor host Ann Marie who does not have a very good command of English approached him to offer some aperitif in the form of Coca Cola or Orange juice.
On her first attempt she asked Jamie,
Anne Marie: Jamie would you like some drink Cola Juice?
Jamie: Im fine
Anne Marie: Imfine ???? you would like cola? Juice?
Jamie: Im fine thanks
Anne Marie: Imfine ? what is imfine?
Jamie: doesn’t matter
Anne Marie: doesn’t matter ? you want some drink?
Jamie: Im ok
By now poor Anne Marie is bamboozled, she was not prepared for these responses, when offering drinks she was thinking yes/no responses would be easy to understand and as I see her standing there with that same blank look I must have shown on my face a thousand times on this trip. I realise how much we vandalise our language which is fine in Australia as people will generally get the gist of the conversation but to a foreigner, well it explains a lot about the funny terms that I would hear from the Greek, Italian and Turkish immigrants when I was a kid.
THE Dordogne is also famous for its Foie Gras,
A goose liver Pate made special by the fact that the goose was force fed via a long tube stuffed down its neck which supposedly makes the pate taste better. I have eaten lots of nice pates in my life, I see no benefit in me buying pate that has needlessly been produced in this (what I believe to be) cruel way for the sake of my taste buds.
Well we had a wonderful week here and had many good chats down by the pool catching up on all the news we have missed out on while away and swapping travel stories with the other guests.
Roquecombe was a fantastic place to stay and we were treated to a few extras we had not bargained for, meeting some great people, seeing quite a few wild deer in the woods, great day trips to Rocamador, Monpazier, Sarlat and Dom, hot air balloons skimming the trees behind our villa, two great hosts and a king size bed which was unbelievable considering the size of the bed in the motor home.
We returned this week to visit Sheena, Patrick and the gang just outside Lyon and off loaded some stuff Sheena had loaned us during our earlier visit. It was great to catch up again and let the kids have some more French family interaction. Travel can really open your eyes culturally but spending some time with a French family is a wonderful experience that we will all remember for a long time. Sheena and Patrick again made us feel at home and when possible ensured that we had the everyday meals that her family eats.
On the Sunday they had a prior engagement so we headed into Lyon to inspect the produce market and take in a few sights.
You would think that Bruce would have learnt a lesson in Sicily and been very wary about Deb ordering food and drinks in a foreign Language. (I forgot to put this story on the blog then so I will tell it now) While I went off to get some photos developed Deb went to order 3 slices of Pizza and a coffee for her and the kids, when I return there is 1 slice of pizza and 3 espressos (tiny over the top full on shots of coffee). This theme has run its course several times and now we have Lyon to add to the list.
2 bowls of soup de jour please. Deb was so confident that she had got this right as she proudly proclaims, there is not a soup I do not like. Now 2 bowls of soup of the day can be absolutely anything in France and Debs confidence in her choice was completely shattered as the waiter placed the soup in front of us.
2 giant best value for money possible all you can eat bowls of pure beetroot soup----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ice cold complete with ice cubes.
I am told that this is quite a common dish in Poland but that interesting fact is not enough comfort for me to stomach my way though 2 gallons of near frozen purple soup.
No doggy bag thanks
We look at each other and smile and the kids just burst out laughing, I suggest to Daniel that this could be a Mr. Bean moment and that he could pass the ladies handbag from behind him and we can dispose of it there. I don’t know what the other diners must have thought as we sat there joking and laughing yet not eating.
Deb and I pushed the soup in front of the kids and I ordered some tartine which was delicious and was some consolation.
We spent a couple of wonderful days with Sheena’s gang and were treated to a lunch at Les 3 Canards restaurant where Patrick was installing a pool and doing some landscaping. Patrick ordered snails and we were all initiated into the French escargot club.
Cointha about to chew up a snail
After a sad goodbye with Sheena we drove to the outskirts of Paris and boarded a train for Gare de Lyon and then off to the Louvre to view the Mona Lisa, Venus De Milo and the thousands of other art treasures and antiques. No sorry Dan Brown fans we did not do a Davinci code tour. We spent 5 hours wandering the Louvre which was great but a little bit of overload for an 8 year old boy. Catching the metro we set off for Monte Marte where Daniel was treated to more near naked ladies outside the Moulin Rouge, he has definitely had his eyes opened on this trip and we have had a few awkward moments figuring out how to explain a few sights to him.
Back to Gare De Lyon train station, home of Le Train Bleu which was the setting for the Mr Beans Holiday restaurant scene. Like Florian’s in Venice this is a beautiful restaurant but totally unaffordable for mere mortals like us.
La Train Bleu
After 6 months on the road being bamboozled by art, culture, isolation from other children and having to put up with their parents 24/7, Cointha and Daniel finally get their pay off. We are off to Disneyland Paris, so we load up the wallet and fill the back pack with food. Disney Paris is huge and after parking it is a ten minute walk just to get to the gate and half of that was on moving walkways. As we approach the gate we view wonderful floral arrangements shaped in Disney characters and the Disney castle can be seen inside the gate.
Mickey made of flowers
I turn to look at the kids faces to see how excited they are and am very surprised that the most excited was Deb.
The funny thing is that children today have not had the same exposure to Disneyland that we had while growing up, sitting down after tea on Sunday nights to watch Mickey, Goofy, Herbie the love bug or Jiminy Cricket. So Deb was quite affected by the whole atmosphere as we walked through the turnstile.
1 day was just enough to do all we needed at Disney, fortunately the weather was not too good which kept the crowds down and the longest we waited for a ride was 45 minutes, although some rides had 1 hour waiting times, they have a special deal there, you can go to both parks in the same day for an extra 10 Euros each, we could not do everything in 1 park on a quiet day so I can’t imagine trying to do 2 parks in 1 day.
The entertainment was great and the Tarzan show quite spectacular as the performers mixed dancing with trampolining and trapeze.
Well that is nearly all for France as we now head for The Netherlands again to visit friends and attend the Baptism of Little Deborah born in April.
1 day was just enough to do all we needed at Disney, fortunately the weather was not too good which kept the crowds down and the longest we waited for a ride was 45 minutes, although some rides had 1 hour waiting times, they have a special deal there, you can go to both parks in the same day for an extra 10 Euros each, we could not do everything in 1 park on a quiet day so I can’t imagine trying to do 2 parks in 1 day.
The entertainment was great and the Tarzan show quite spectacular as the performers mixed dancing with trampolining and trapeze.
Well that is nearly all for France as we now head for The Netherlands again to visit friends and attend the Baptism of Little Deborah born in April.